Sanzhan South River
Hualien County, Taiwan
Sanzhan South River, which flows down from Patuolu Mountain (3102m), is one of Hualien's most popular rivers for cooling off in the summer. While the majority of tourists visiting the area play in the usually calm and deep pools along the river by the village and just up-river from it, the undeveloped section of river beyond the village is one of Taiwan's most challenging destinations for river tracing. The wild section of the river begins approximately 2 kilometers past the limits of the Sanzhan Village and features 21 kilometers of waterfalls, whitewater, rapids, gorges and cliffs that tower as high as 500 meters directly over the river.
An Introduction to River Tracing Routes at Sanzhan South River
General Tourist Area
The area of river immediately around the village and up to 1-2 kilometers upriver from the village. In the summer, the pools in this area and the trails around the river are filled with groups of indigenous, Hualien locals, and out-of-county tourists playing in the water and barbecuing. Half-day river tracing tours depart from the village and generally only go as far as the second major bend where the river turns west.
Single Day River Trace: Golden Grotto
Around 4 kilometers from Sanzhan Village is the Golden Grotto, a multi-tiered slot canyon. Famous for being Hualien's most popular river tracing destination that doesn't require an overnight trip, this beautiful canyon is visited by multiple teams every weekend.
This is generally the farthest upriver that recreational river tracing companies will offer to take tourists. Up until the final canyon section, hunting trails follow the side of the river from the village, allowing for easy travel and evacuation if necessary. The tour is offered as a single-day trip or an overnight.
Multi-day River Trace: The Platinum Grotto (Canbao Waterfall)
After the Golden Grotto confluence, the character of the river shifts dramatically. Over the next kilometer or so, the riverbed is obstructed by countless large boulders and enclosed by 200-meter tall gorge walls. There are multiple 50-100 meter pools which must be crossed against the current where traversing on the sidewall would be impossible. There are two waterfalls which must be climbed prior to arriving at the Platinum Grotto. One is occasionally referred to as False Canbao Waterfall, the other is referred to as Canbao Waterfall.
The Platinum Grotto begins after climbing Canbao Waterfall. Although it's possible to get to the base of the long gorge before Canbao Waterfall in around 6 hours, this route is best done over multiple days.
Traditional Sawanobori Route: Patuolu Mountain via Sanzhan South River
Before becoming a popular form of recreation river tracing, or "sawanobori", was defined as summiting a peak or ridge-line by following a creek to its headwaters. In the case of Sanzhan South River, the longest route would be approximately 20 kilometers long and lead to Taroko National Park's Patuolu Mountain. The Patuolu route was completed by a Japanese team but the trip report was published in a Japanese sawanobori magazine and not not made available digitally. The estimated time required for this route would be 10-20 days. More recently, a Taiwanese-Japanese team summited Zhugu Mountain via Sanzhan South River. The trip took 8 days.
Photos and a writeup in Japanese can be found in this facebook here: Sanzhan Sawanobori to Zhugu Mountain Trip Report
Road to Canbao Waterfall
A detailed guide to Sanzhan South River between Sanzhan Village and Canbao Waterfall.
Guide Summary
The following visual guide uses combines satellite imagery with on-location photos taken in 2023. It will lead you from the village of Sanzhan to Canbao, briefly describing key details of each section of river along the way. It is meant for entertainment and reference purposes. If planning a trip to Canbao, you should reference other trip reports and ensure you have a good understanding of river tracing equipment, and river tracing hazards prior to planning your trip.
Hazards
The section of river between Sanzhan Village and Canbao changes after every flood. It will likely include multiple 50-100 meter swims, risky climbing adjacent to hydraulics, and general whitewater-related dangers. Teams should be prepared to self-rescue.
NOTE: Due to heavy rainfall from multiple typhoons in the summer and fall of 2024, the riverscape has likely changed again.
Sanzhan Tribe [Mandarin]; Pratan [Truku]
The closest parking to the river can be found at this small indigenous village.
Between the Village and the Golden Grotto Confluence
The majority of the 4 kilometers leading to the Golden Grotto are easily traversed by using indigenous hunting paths which line both sides of the river. Close to the confluence with the Golden Grotto tributary, the river begins to narrow. This is the beginning of a gorge which spans from prior to the confluence to around 1 kilometer beyond.
Hazard: This area is known to have rockfalls.
The Golden Grotto
The Golden Grotto is the name of the canyon located in the first large tributary on the northern side of the river.
Hazard: This area is known to have rockfalls. Injuries and deaths have occured.
Gorge Beyond the Golden Grotto Confluence
Occasionally running into local hunters and foragers while in the river, I've learned that there are at least ways this section can be referred to locally, (1) "Draw's Blood", and (2) "Yo-dao". The section was named "Draw's Blood" by one hunter after his friend was hit by a falling rock. Similarly, "Yo-dao" refer's to an accident someone else's friend suffered while passing through. This section of the river likely has one of the highest rates of rockfalls up until the 500-meter gorge beyond Canbao.
Hazard: This area is known to have rockfalls; risk can be mitigated.
The Campground
At this bend, canyon walls disappear and the river opens up. Depending on the distribution of boulders and sediment, as well as current river height, there should be several, if not a dozen, reasonable campsites in this area.
First 100-Meter Swim
There may be ways to avoid this by climbing high up river right.
Entrance to First Gorge
Last year (2023), we opted for an early start. Even in the summer, having some sort of thermal protection is advised for long gorge swims.
Additional photos from 2017.
Second 100 Meter Swim and First Waterfall
Depending on the water level this may require pitons. We managed to solo up the waterfall on the right twice in 2017 and 2023. When Matt returned in late 2023 after a typhoon, he has to use pitons to traverse the wall on river left due to high flow.
Hazard: Hydraulics at the base of the waterfall are an entrapment and drowning hazard.
Second Gorge
This section will have intermittent swims and short climbs.
Canbao Waterfall
In three trips we still haven't climbed over Canbao due to time constraints. Can be climbed with pitons or without. At one time several years ago the flow was so low that a group walked up.
Hazard: Hydraulics at the base of the waterfall are an entrapment and drowning hazard. There is an area. behind the waterfall that would seem impossible to escape from.
Hazard: At high flow there are undercuts that pose significant danger in the gorge close to the waterfall.
Beyond Canbao
Because of how few teams progress above Canbao, there aren't many detailed accounts of the river beyond. We know from several Taiwanese accounts and Japanese teams that multiple gorges exist. Most teams have to use fins and ladders to assist in swimming against the current and climbing around hazards. The guide will not delve into this area further for now.
Sanzhan South River Photo Gallery
Additional photos from Sanzhan South River.
The gorge that leads to Canbao Waterfall
The gorge that leads to Canbao Waterfall